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Cerro Sombrero, Chile to Piedra Buena, Argentina

Saturday, April 4 I would say we slept in, but we rarely manage to get up before 8 regardless of how early the alarm goes off. We just didn’t feel guilty about it today because it’s too cold out to be on the road early. We ate our breakfast and then headed to the gas […]

Ushuaia, Argentina to Cerro Sombrero, Chile: Northward Ho!

Friday, April 3 We left Ushuaia with almost a weightless feeling. It was a dark, gray morning with a damp chill in the air, but for the first time in a long time, we were going north instead of south. The race against winter south was over, but it felt like we’d almost tied mother […]

Punta Arenas, Chile to Ushuaia, Argentina: We Made It!

Saturday, March 28 We woke up earlier than usual for us as we wanted to be early to arrive for our 9 am ferry to Porvenir. The owner of our hostel was up and engaged us in cheerful conversation. The breakfast was better than usual, having a good selection of juices and cereals in addition […]

Puerto Natales to Punta Arenas: Welding and Cold Night Riding

Friday, March 27 Our first priority for today was to find a welder. With Inna’s right pannier split at the seams and caved in and my right side rack missing a support. Knowing nothing opened early, we availed ourselves of the opportunity to sleep in until 9 am. Our hostel, Casa Cecilia, had perhaps the […]

El Calafate, Argentina to Puerto Natales, Chile: Torres del Paine

Thursday, March 26 We made another one of our famous early starts and enjoyed the standard south South American breakfast we so love, fortified with yogurts and fruits we bought at the store. Once we were packed, we rode around town to a few locations that had been recommended to us where we might find […]

Chile Chico, Chile to Tres Lagos, Argentina: Ruta 40 Has Nothing on Carretera Austral

Monday, March 23 Since we had somewhat of a late night last night, it was hard to pull ourselves out of bed earlier than 8:30 am this morning. We ate a healthy breakfast of yogurt and fruit we purchased yesterday and were on the road before by 9:30 am. The border crossing was fast and […]

Coyhaique to Chile Chico: The Long Way Around the Lake

Sunday, March 22 We pried ourselves out of our cozy beds and had a passable breakfast downstairs. The owner, Gustavo, was very cheerful and showed us his little moto. It was his dream to travel on a similar trip. Once packed, we navigated through the town and filled up on gas. We were looking for […]

Termas de Puyuguapi to Coyhaique: Exit Luxury, Enter Rugged

Saturday, March 21 We slept in until 8:45 as we had a breakfast appointment. When we had arrived yesterday, we had met an Argentinean couple who were coming north on a BMW 1200. They were extremely nice and offered to meet us at breakfast to go over the map and give us advice. We’d gotten […]

Futaleufú to Termas de Puyuguapi: The Carrertera Austral Begins

Friday, March 20 It was a brisk 45 out when we woke up. I went outside to top off the oil in the bikes while Inna took advantage of the kitchen again to make us a tasty veggie and leftover chicken scramble. It was heaven to not have another miserly breakfast of coffee and stale […]

San Carlos de Bariloche, Argentina to Futaleufú, Chile

Thursday, March 19 We got up at 7:30 am knowing that we had a long day ahead of us as we were crossing back into Chile. We realized that we had no Chilean money and the travel book mentioned that there are no ATMs in the 500 km stretch of the Carretera Austral, so after […]