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Punta Arenas, Chile to Ushuaia, Argentina: We Made It!

Saturday, March 28 We woke up earlier than usual for us as we wanted to be early to arrive for our 9 am ferry to Porvenir. The owner of our hostel was up and engaged us in cheerful conversation. The breakfast was better than usual, having a good selection of juices and cereals in addition […]

Puerto Natales to Punta Arenas: Welding and Cold Night Riding

Friday, March 27 Our first priority for today was to find a welder. With Inna’s right pannier split at the seams and caved in and my right side rack missing a support. Knowing nothing opened early, we availed ourselves of the opportunity to sleep in until 9 am. Our hostel, Casa Cecilia, had perhaps the […]

El Calafate, Argentina to Puerto Natales, Chile: Torres del Paine

Thursday, March 26 We made another one of our famous early starts and enjoyed the standard south South American breakfast we so love, fortified with yogurts and fruits we bought at the store. Once we were packed, we rode around town to a few locations that had been recommended to us where we might find […]

El Calafate: Visiting the Glacier

Wednesday, March 25 Last night we decided to spend two nights in El Calafate in order to visit the glacier and do some bike maintenance today. As planned, we slept in until we were feeling guilty about wasting away the day, and after a cup of coffee at the hostel we got on the road […]

Tres Lagos to El Calafate: Outdoors on the Motos

Tuesday, March 24 We slept in until 9:30 am, and after the usual breakfast of bread, jam and coffee hit the road. The black cat came by to wish us bon viaje and was rewarded with left over chicken milanesa we specifically saved for him from last night’s dinner. We were recommended by a few […]

Chile Chico, Chile to Tres Lagos, Argentina: Ruta 40 Has Nothing on Carretera Austral

Monday, March 23 Since we had somewhat of a late night last night, it was hard to pull ourselves out of bed earlier than 8:30 am this morning. We ate a healthy breakfast of yogurt and fruit we purchased yesterday and were on the road before by 9:30 am. The border crossing was fast and […]

Coyhaique to Chile Chico: The Long Way Around the Lake

Sunday, March 22 We pried ourselves out of our cozy beds and had a passable breakfast downstairs. The owner, Gustavo, was very cheerful and showed us his little moto. It was his dream to travel on a similar trip. Once packed, we navigated through the town and filled up on gas. We were looking for […]

Termas de Puyuguapi to Coyhaique: Exit Luxury, Enter Rugged

Saturday, March 21 We slept in until 8:45 as we had a breakfast appointment. When we had arrived yesterday, we had met an Argentinean couple who were coming north on a BMW 1200. They were extremely nice and offered to meet us at breakfast to go over the map and give us advice. We’d gotten […]

Futaleufú to Termas de Puyuguapi: The Carrertera Austral Begins

Friday, March 20 It was a brisk 45 out when we woke up. I went outside to top off the oil in the bikes while Inna took advantage of the kitchen again to make us a tasty veggie and leftover chicken scramble. It was heaven to not have another miserly breakfast of coffee and stale […]

San Carlos de Bariloche, Argentina to Futaleufú, Chile

Thursday, March 19 We got up at 7:30 am knowing that we had a long day ahead of us as we were crossing back into Chile. We realized that we had no Chilean money and the travel book mentioned that there are no ATMs in the 500 km stretch of the Carretera Austral, so after […]