Tuesday, March 17 Since this was going to be a long day’s ride, we awoke early and were on the road by 8:30. We were also trying to make it to the penguin sanctuary on the Islotes de Puñihuil, a rocky outcropping of islands on the Pacific coast west of Ancud. Two species of penguin, […]
Friday, March 20 It was a brisk 45 out when we woke up. I went outside to top off the oil in the bikes while Inna took advantage of the kitchen again to make us a tasty veggie and leftover chicken scramble. It was heaven to not have another miserly breakfast of coffee and stale […]
Saturday, March 21 We slept in until 8:45 as we had a breakfast appointment. When we had arrived yesterday, we had met an Argentinean couple who were coming north on a BMW 1200. They were extremely nice and offered to meet us at breakfast to go over the map and give us advice. We’d gotten […]
Sunday, March 22 We pried ourselves out of our cozy beds and had a passable breakfast downstairs. The owner, Gustavo, was very cheerful and showed us his little moto. It was his dream to travel on a similar trip. Once packed, we navigated through the town and filled up on gas. We were looking for […]
Thursday, March 26 We made another one of our famous early starts and enjoyed the standard south South American breakfast we so love, fortified with yogurts and fruits we bought at the store. Once we were packed, we rode around town to a few locations that had been recommended to us where we might find […]
Friday, March 27 Our first priority for today was to find a welder. With Inna’s right pannier split at the seams and caved in and my right side rack missing a support. Knowing nothing opened early, we availed ourselves of the opportunity to sleep in until 9 am. Our hostel, Casa Cecilia, had perhaps the […]
Saturday, March 28 We woke up earlier than usual for us as we wanted to be early to arrive for our 9 am ferry to Porvenir. The owner of our hostel was up and engaged us in cheerful conversation. The breakfast was better than usual, having a good selection of juices and cereals in addition […]
Friday, April 3 We left Ushuaia with almost a weightless feeling. It was a dark, gray morning with a damp chill in the air, but for the first time in a long time, we were going north instead of south. The race against winter south was over, but it felt like we’d almost tied mother […]
Saturday, April 4 I would say we slept in, but we rarely manage to get up before 8 regardless of how early the alarm goes off. We just didn’t feel guilty about it today because it’s too cold out to be on the road early. We ate our breakfast and then headed to the gas […]
Sunday, April 5 The wind continued to roar throughout the night, prompting me to get up in the middle of the night several times to see if the bikes had been blown over yet. When the weather is bad or I don’t feel the bikes are secure enough I never sleep well and always end […]