Southern Exposure

Friday, April 10

Since we only had about 200 miles to go today, we slept in a bit (our specialty), and then had breakfast at the restaurant next door where our hotel had an agreement to serve breakfast. It was the standard fare and we finished quickly. After we’d retrieved the bikes from the parking space, we packed up and headed to the grocery store.

We bought a few bottles of wine so that we wouldn’t show up at the Estancia empty handed. While I was waiting outside with the bikes, a local journalist spotted me standing around and came up to chat. He wanted to interview me for his radio show, and I was happy to do it. This was only the second time I’d ever given an interview, the first time being in Mexico. It’s just the strangest feeling but I doubt I will ever have the need to get used to it. I just tried to be nice and say nice things about the town and Argentina. When he saw our Obama “Hope” stickers, he inquired about my opinion of the old and new US administrations. I gave high marks to Obama, and told him how happy we were to have the Bush years finally behind us.

It didn’t take long before we were on our way out of town. We were eager to get to the Estancia and spend a few days off the bikes. I had a strange sensation in my gut when I realized that this was our second to last day of riding in South America. So many miles behind us and so few to go. The morning’s ride was not very exciting, passing mostly through wide open farmland. We were too focused on the destination to stop to take a single picture.

We made it onto Ruta 7 and crossed the final miles until we reached the YPF station that was our landmark. Fernando’s directions were excellent and even included a little map. We then rode through the small town, and found ourselves on a road so dry that dirt had turned to a dust so fine it was like sand. After so many miles and being so close to the end, there was no way we were taking another fall, and we proceeded cautiously for the few miles to the Estancia.

We reached the gate of the Estancia Calchaqui and let ourselves in. We rode the final mile to the main house in a state of wonder and excitement. We hadn’t really heard from Fernando about what to expect other than it was a family gathering for Easter. It’s hard to see your jaw drop when you’re wearing a helmet, but ours definitely did as we approached the house. It wasn’t a house, it was a group of several large houses set amidst a grove of oak trees. A group of 10 or so horses were saddled and tied up in the shade of the trees. We later learned the Estancia occupied over 11,000 acres (4500 hectares).

Fernando and Adela came out to greet us, and Inna and I were just in awe at our beautiful surroundings. We parked, and Fernando showed us to the guest house where we would be staying. Our room was on the lower floor and was spacious and nicely decorated. We took a moment to clean ourselves up, showering and changing clothes. Adela knocked on our door with a pitcher of water and introduced us to some of her nieces.

Once we were ready, we headed over to the main house to meet the family. The Estancia belonged to Adela’s parents. Adela was the oldest of her siblings. She had four younger brothers, all of whom were at the house with their families, so it was a huge gathering of about 30 family members. There were kids everywhere as Inna and I made our introductions.

We met Adeal’s parents Adelita and Vicente who were the heads of the Gutierrez family. Adela’s four brothers were: Vicente (Polaco) with his wife Patricia (Pato); Pablo; Sebastian (El Negro) with his wife Maria (Loly); Ignacio (Nacho) with his wife Agustina (Agos), plus all of their kids. And finally, Adela and Fernando’s daughter Adela (Pepa) with her husband Sebastian and their tow small kids Juanito and Adelita Jr. It was interesting to us, and I think quite traditional in the old Argentinean families that often kids have the same names as their parents, so the only way we could try to remember everyone is by their nick names.

Everyone was so warm and friendly to us, all we could do was smile, exchange hugs and kisses (a proper greeting in Argentina), and enjoy everyone’s company. Adela told us her brothers were all very competitive, and they seemed disappointed neither Inna nor I golfed as the golf tournament in the back yard was just beginning. Inna and I just enjoyed some late afternoon snacks and a drink as we chatted and watched the golfers play across the lawn.

We tried to play a gaucho coin tossing game, called The Frog, but we were pretty terrible at it and gave up soon. Dinner time arrived, and we sat down at the main dining table. It was a huge table even though the kids were eating separately in the other room. The family was just so jovial. They were so full of good humor that we probably spent half the dinner laughing. Inna and I are both from small families and it was a treat to watch the interaction of such a large happy family.

After dinner, we had another round of drinks, and then it was time for the annual ping pong tournament. Lots were drawn, and I was paired up with Adela while Inna was matched against Pablo. Inna was up first, and while she put up a valiant effort, she was no match for Pablo, the reigning champion, and was out in minutes. My turn came soon enough, and Adela gave me a good whipping. I think I might have made it to 4 points before Adela reached the game winning 11. Ouch! The matches continued, and it was down to Pablo and El Negro’s son, Sebastian (Sebis). It was a great match, but Sebis triumphed, his first tournament win and also the first time he’d beaten his father in the process. It was great fun to watch the three brothers parade the boy around on their shoulders in victory.

Inna and I were pretty tired by the end and ready for bed. It had been such a great day and the warm welcome we’d been given left us in high spirits. Sleep came easily in our nice beds.