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Estancia Calchaqui: A Day in Our Life As Porteños

Saturday, April 11 We woke up around 9:30 am looking forward to a nice breakfast. We were told that one of the brothers, Vicente, during his youth worked as a cook at an American diner and learned to make mean eggs. This was the subject of numerous witty jokes at last night’s dinner, and we […]

General Pico to Estancia Calchaqui: Wow!

Friday, April 10 Since we only had about 200 miles to go today, we slept in a bit (our specialty), and then had breakfast at the restaurant next door where our hotel had an agreement to serve breakfast. It was the standard fare and we finished quickly. After we’d retrieved the bikes from the parking […]

San Antonio Oeste to General Pico: Signs of Life

Thursday, April 9 We’d been in touch with our friend Fernando and his wife Adela, whom we had met at the thermal spa in Puyuhuapi. They had offered us hospitality at their home near Buenos Aires when we passed through, but as it was Easter weekend, they extended their invitation to us to come visit […]

Puerto Madryn to San Antonio Oeste: Yay, Penguinos!

Wednesday, April 8 We didn’t sleep well last night worrying about the bikes parked outside which, even though we received permission, for the sake of morning convenience we decided not to park in the hostel’s kitchen. It was an early morning for us, but getting up was easy, as my excitement for the penguins was […]

Gaiman to Puerto Madryn: The Challenge Park

Tuesday, April 7 After the last two days of stress and worry we decided that a sleep in was in order and didn’t get out of bed before 10 am. Looking out the window, we were greeted by bright sunshine, clear blue skies and pretty green trees lining the main street of the town. After […]

Comodoro Rivadavia to Gaiman: Pay Up, Rainy Misery and Fire

Monday, March 6 We had an unpleasantly hot night in our stuffy and windowless room aggravated by a feeling of anxiety for things to be resolved today. We were not sure if we would have to stay another night in Rivadavia, but we were absolutely sure it would not be in this hotel. We packed […]

Piedra Buena to Comodoro Rivadavia: The Missing Link

Sunday, April 5 The wind continued to roar throughout the night, prompting me to get up in the middle of the night several times to see if the bikes had been blown over yet. When the weather is bad or I don’t feel the bikes are secure enough I never sleep well and always end […]

Cerro Sombrero, Chile to Piedra Buena, Argentina

Saturday, April 4 I would say we slept in, but we rarely manage to get up before 8 regardless of how early the alarm goes off. We just didn’t feel guilty about it today because it’s too cold out to be on the road early. We ate our breakfast and then headed to the gas […]

Ushuaia, Argentina to Cerro Sombrero, Chile: Northward Ho!

Friday, April 3 We left Ushuaia with almost a weightless feeling. It was a dark, gray morning with a damp chill in the air, but for the first time in a long time, we were going north instead of south. The race against winter south was over, but it felt like we’d almost tied mother […]

Ushuaia: “The End of the World, The Beginning of Everything”

Sunday, March 29 – Slacker Day # 1 After 140 days, 16,895 miles and 13 countries we had finally reached the end of the world, or to be correct, the southernmost city in the world accessible by road. It’s hard to believe that only 750 miles separate us from Antarctica. After reaching Ushuaia there was […]